This new series is to help answer the many questions about Kadee® products and to provide “Helpful Hints” to modelers using our products. Remember, if you have a question regarding Kadee® products feel free to simply ask Kadee®. Sam the Answer Man will only be available after 1:00 p.m. PST Mon-Thu to answer questions.

Sam the Answer Man: #1 Nov. 2006
November 2006: This month I’ve decided to do the coupler conversion on the new Athearn Genesis “Big Boy” and “Challenger” locomotives. Since we just released our new “Scale” head “WHISKER®” Couplers I was able to easily install our short shank #153 scale head coupler. You can use the standard head #148, however, it will protrude a little more than the #153.
The tender was a simple change out, just take theirs out and drop our #153 into their box. Fortunately, the coupler heights came out just right on all three locomotives I converted.
The pilots were a bit more work. Remove the screw holding the plate and swinging grate/dummy coupler. Make a narrow shim from .020” thick stock about 1/16” to 1/8” wide x .300” long. Place this at the back of the coupler platform so the back of the draft gear sits on it. Assemble the coupler so the box portion is the bottom. Slide it onto the platform and align it with the back screw hole. It’s best if you can acquire a shorter screw with the same metric threads as the original. If you can not you will need to use some washers or some sort of spacer on the original screw to be able to hold the coupler box in position. All three locomotives required the little shim to achieve the correct coupler height. Athearn should be commended in getting all the coupler heights consistent, at least on the models I worked on.

Sam the Answer Man: #2 December. 2006
On30 modeling is becoming more and more popular. With this Kadee® has entered the On30 market with our new #300 On30 24” Griffin Wheelsets. Although we have not tried them in but a few manufacturers On30 trucks we have put them into the Bachmann trucks and they look great and roll quite freely. These wheels are just like our HO scale wheelsets with die cast zinc wheels and plastic insulated axles. If you are willing you can ream out the journals in other On30 trucks to fit these new wheelsets. We did this on several San Jaun Car Co. trucks and using “The Tool” the wheels roll really nice.
The other On30 product is the #815 coupler height gauge. This is used when the modeler wishes to use an On3 coupler on their On30 models. Most factory made On30 models are set up to use HO scale couplers that are mounted rather low for On30. This requires the modeler to custom fit On3 couplers and mount them at the correct height. Thus the need of a coupler height gauge that sets on HO gauge track and has the On3 coupler at the correct height. Our #815 is the base from our HO #205 coupler height gauge with a special adapter and our #803 coupler mounted on top. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!!

Sam the Answer Man: #3 January. 2007
Now that everybody is playing with all their new Christmas train presents and needing to install Kadee® couplers I’ll give you some basic principles of coupler installation.
The most important is to make sure all of your coupler are at the same height and as level as possible. Learn how to drill and tap screw holes at least in plastic. Learn how our couplers work then you’ll know why it’s important to get the mounting correct. When properly mounted a coupler should be at the correct height, level, on the centerline, and “snap” back to center when you flip it back and forth. By using our coupler height gauges, coupler conversion lists, and instructions you should be able to mount couplers on just about any model made. If you just can not figure out what coupler to use or how to install it then it’s best to contact Kadee® (me) to at least get pointed in the right direction.
We commend hobby shops, clubs, and individuals who will spend time helping others enjoy this hobby and especially those who will help modelers install Kadee® couplers properly. Our web site (www.kadee.com) has a coupler conversion section that provides a great deal of help.

Sam the Answer Man: #4 February. 2007
I’m going to touch on a few “Large Scale” issues that we continually receive inquiries about. In our terms “Large Scale” refers to #1 (1:32 ratio) up to Fn3 (1:20.3 ratio). All of these and the in between scales run on the common 45 mm gauge track, which is actually #1 scale standard gauge track and in actuality is narrow gauge track for the other large scales. LGB more or less began producing commercial large scale model railroad equipment in 1968 for garden (outside) railroading. Thus the terminology of “G” scale came from the LGB term (German) “Gatenbahn”. Now, unfortunately, all of these large scales are generally referred to as “G” gauge or “G” scale modeling. “G” scale actually is 1:24 (1/2”) and 1:22.5.
The NMRA was slow to address this large scale issue and unfortunately, manufacturers had few guidelines to go by so ended up building their models in a number of different scale ratios that may not match each others equipment. Most of them made their own proprietary coupler styles at various heights but usually lower than the prototype couplers. That’s why there is so much confusion in large scale modeling and that is why we are in business.
Kadee® large scale couplers come in #1 scale (1:32) and G scale (1:24) and are designed so the coupler head is mounted at the correct prototypical height. Both sizes are used on all large scale models regardless of the actual scale of the model. So those of you large scalers can choose either our #1 scale or G scale couplers. Many modelers will use the larger G scale couplers because they have a larger pulling face to help compensate for rough trackage. Some use the smaller #1 scale couplers because they look better size wise and many narrow gauge railroads use 3/4 size equipment where the smaller coupler would actually be appropriate.

Sam the Answer Man: #5 March 2007
For those of you that are into European style models both in HO (1:87) and OO (1:76.2) scale I hope the following comments will answer some of the issues regarding European models.
European modeling within the USA is a very small percentage compared to American style of modeling. In Europe they have the NEM which is their equivalent of our NMRA. The NEM has standards just as the NMRA and their NEM 362 coupler pocket is what we deal with most often. Many but not all European models use the NEM 362 snap in coupler pocket. Because of this we developed four lengths of knuckle couplers to fit into the NEM pocket. They are shortest to longest #17, #18, #19, and #20 NEM couplers. These couplers have a flexible “dove tail” shank that simply snaps into the NEM pocket. Compared to standard HO scale couplers they have a very large offset upward to compensate for the difference between the NMRA and NEM coupler heights. Because they snap into the pocket some modelers try to use our NEM couplers in the dummy coupler pilots of American style steam locomotives. This rarely works because of the large offset, where most dummy couplers are actually at the correct NMRA coupler heights. Our NEM coupler works just fine in HO scale European models, however, there are many OO scale models that also have NEM coupler pockets. Unfortunately, the coupler heights for OO scale models is slightly higher than HO coupler heights. OO scale coupler height is 29/64” (12 mm) and HO scale coupler height is 25/64” (9.9 mm) measured from the top of the rail to the “center” of the coupler. This means if you use our NEM coupler in an OO scale model the coupler will be too high to function with HO height couplers and our magnetic uncouplers. This may be OK if all your models are OO scale and you use a manual uncoupling tool. To lower the OO NEM coupler to HO height we use our long #20 coupler and attach it to the “bottom” of the OO scale NEM pocket with small screws through the shank.
For European models without the NEM pocket it’s a matter of custom fitting a Kadee coupler to a level mounting platform. I usually try to use the #38 coupler or the longer #36 coupler because of the smaller versatile draft gear box. Since we have not seen that many European models our coupler conversion information is very limited so we handle these on an individual basis. So if you have a European model and wish to convert it to Kadee couplers please contact us and we’ll try to help as much as possible.

Sam the Answer Man: #6 April 2007
We get quite a number of inquires about our “trucks” and in this issue I’ll try to address some of these questions.
Kadee markets three basic designs of freight car trucks in various styles. We “do not” make passenger car trucks. We have our standard trucks, self centering trucks, and trucks with couplers mounted on them. All of our trucks are all metal, fully sprung, and come with wheelsets with metal wheels and plastic axles. The plastic axles giving it the needed insulation. Our standard trucks are designed to mount on a flat surface using a #2 screw. Many freight cars have a post the trucks fit over and on these you need to trim off the post and make a level surface for the trucks to ride on. Our self centering trucks have a wedge shape bushing inside the bolster. When you lift the car up, the trucks fall over this bushing and self align with the car body. This reduces the time and fooling around getting the wheels set on the rails. When the car is on the rails the truck lifts and the wedge is disengaged to pivot freely. Our trucks with couplers attached come with the trucks assembled but the coupler needs to be assembled. The coupler is our older #4 in a special metal box. This coupler can be a challenge to assemble with the tiny coil spring and dowel. A helpful hint is to glue the spring into the back of the slot to help get it assembled and set in the box.
We make quite a number of different styles and if you are interested in being prototypically correct the best thing to do is find a photo or documentation on the car you have to see what type of truck was used on the real car. Many manufacturers try to install the correct trucks, however, you’ll find the less expensive and older models may not have the correct trucks. Generally speaking, the Bettendorf style and A-3 Ride Control are the most popular for the late steam and transition era, the Arch Bar is most popular in the early 1900s into the 1940s, the 70 and 100 ton Roller Bearing trucks started in the late 1950s and are now the only style used in the modern era.
We do not have a conversion chart for trucks as we do for couplers. This is because our trucks can be adapted to almost any freight car, even the less expensive and older cars with large mounting holes. There are many ways to fill in the large holes so you can drill a new smaller hole for a #2 screw.

Sam the Answer Man: #7 May 2007
This month I’m going to “briefly” talk about prototypical coupler designs.
Prior to the development of the “knuckle” coupler in the 1880s, most American railroads were using some form of a “link and pin” coupling. This was basically a “link” of chain (or the end of a draw bar) set into a pocket with a “pin” through it to hold it in place. This method, of course, had it’s advantages but many more safety and convenience disadvantages. Through the years many coupling devices were tried until finally a dependable “knuckle coupler” design came into being. This was the Janney design which was eventually adopted by the MCB (ARA then AAR) in the 1890s, also an improved design came along as the “Tower” coupler of 1893. Then through a continuum of development an improved design of the Janney coupler became standard in 1904. With great effort and testing and constant improvement of the 1904 design in 1916 the MCB Type “D” coupler became standard. The MCB 10 became standard in 1918 and finally with more developments the MCB 10A became todays’ standard Type “E” coupler in 1932.
So on a modeling stand point the majority of couplers on the market represent the Type “E” coupler. But in general appearances the “scale” couplers presently marketed can be used to represent the early Janney couplers. This means modelers in any scale can use knuckle couplers for models back to the 1880s and be, at least functionally and in general appearance, prototypical.
Specialty couplers began to appear experimentally in the late 1930s and in 1947 the Type “H” was standardized. The Type “H” sometimes know as the “Triple Lock” or “Tightlock” and, because of it’s safety features, was used on the newly developed high speed passenger trains.
The first interlocking coupler use for freight cars was the Type “F” coupler introduced in the 1940s was made Alternate Standard in 1954. The Type “F” coupler is basically a Type “H” coupler with an additional bottom shelf. Then in the late 1960s the top and bottom shelf Type “SF” coupler was developed and standardized in 1970 for hazardous material tank cars. During this same time period the Type “E” coupler with a bottom shelf was developed as the Type “SBE” and the Type “SE” top and bottom shelf came later on. Both the Type “SF” and “SE” couplers were standard for tank cars in 1975 then eventually became mandatory for hazardous material cars. Also, the Type “F” coupler head is used for the “rotary” couplers found on many coal hauling cars.
Please note the Type “H”, “F”, and “SF” are larger totally different designs than the more common Type “E”, “SBE”, and “SE” couplers. In scale model railroading they should not be mistaken as the same size of couplers. Kadee® #118 Type “SF” coupler is actually a scale size coupler that if compared to the smaller Type “E” scale couplers will seem way over scale but it’s not.
Our #118 coupler can be modified to represent the Type “F” or “H” couplers. Also, Our #118 is an actual functional shelf coupler, meaning the couplers will not slip out of each other during operations.
Most of the above information came from the NMRA and “The Car and Locomotive Cyclopedias”.

Sam the Answer Man: #8 June 2007
This month I’m going to explain a bit about coupler conversions. Not necessarily how to do a coupler conversion but rather what we go through and a little history we’ve been a part of.
Many years ago when we started to make functional knuckle couplers there was a basic problem of how to mount them and by what standards. At that time there were very few if any coupler standards. This meant that any manufacturer making couplers were left alone to use what ever method matched their own proprietary coupler and uncoupling system. Of course, this meant that the modeler was left with using the coupler that came with the model or “custom” fitting another make of coupler such as a Kadee®. We took it upon ourselves to compile information about how to mount Kadee® couplers to the many different models made through the years. We always try to have an actual model in our hands to do a coupler conversion so we had to acquire models from all the various makers in order to determine which Kadee coupler best suited that particular model and to write the instructions where even the most novice modeler with the basic modeling tools could accomplish the conversion. Fortunately, there were many models that were made to accommodate Kadee® couplers yet, unfortunately, so many were made that needed extensive modification to get a Kadee® coupler mounted correctly and at the correct coupler height.
Thanks to the N.M.R.A. and certain individuals, through the years standards began to appear and many manufacturers actually followed them but there were, and still are, some that have given little regard to coupler standards.
Today with most if not all manufacturers using some form of a knuckle coupler you’d imagine that they would have followed the basic standards and made their coupler pockets all to the same standards. To a certain extent, many have done wonderful and should be commended, however, there are some that still give little regard to couplers and to proper correct coupler mounting. So we still have to spend a great deal of time doing coupler conversions and finding ways to adjust coupler heights even on models that have very nice coupler pockets. In the past we had a very small selection of couplers with the common NO.5® being the back bone of our coupler line. So the modeler had to do a lot of modifying to get a coupler mounted. Now, fortunately, we have the largest coupler selection available and with all the different offsets and shank lengths we’ve eliminated a lot of “hacking and whacking” that was common with earlier coupler conversions.
We now have an extensive amount of coupler conversions, mostly in HO scale but also many large scale conversions. We provide coupler conversion lists and many drawings and instructions that are not covered in the individual couplers instructions. We have these available on our web site or, upon request, in printed form (an S.A.E. would be appreciated) These are provided at “no cost” just for the asking. Although we have a very large listing there are many models we have not seen so if you can not find the conversion information you need please contact us.

Sam the Answer Man: #9 July 2007
“Uncoupling” and uncouplers are subjects that need to be covered in a bit more detail than I’ve done in the past.
I’m sure most of the modelers that were around in the 1940s and early 1950s remember the many different couplers being tried and used during that era. Kadee’s first couplers first introduced in 1946 used an in-track tripping device. Then in the late 1950s we developed our “Delayed Magne-Matic Uncoupling®” and it is still the primary method of uncoupling to this day. That’s almost 50 years of use and it will be in use for many more years to come.
Kadee offers two types of magnets for uncoupling, permanent, and electric magnets. The permanent magnets are magnetized permanently so the magnetic force (flux) is available (on) all the time. Electric uncouplers are magnetized (activated) only when switched on. We offer between the rails and under the track permanent magnetic uncouplers for HOn3 up to 45 mm gauge (large scale) and offer electric uncouplers for HOn3 up to O gauge.
Uncoupling occurs when the couplers are spotted over the magnet and you allow slack between them. The magnetic flux is on the out side edges so the “trip pins” are pulled in opposite directions thus opening the couplers. I’ll cover the actual “Delayed” subject in my next months article. One point I do wish to make is the term “trip pin” this is the metal wire curving down from the bottom of the coupler head. The term is a left over from the old straight pin used on our older couplers that was “tripped” by a in the track device. Now it is curved for the use of magnetic force to open the couplers. Being curved many modelers mistakenly call it the “air hose” or “glad hand”. We never intended it to represent the air hose and it’s called that just because it is curved.
There are many modelers that prefer to manually uncouple their couplers and many clubs and groups that use a “brakeman” to go around the layout and do the uncoupling using some sort of tool. This method is just fine for those who wish to “play the part” or for those that do not wish to or have not learned the basics of using Magne-Matic® uncoupling. Many variations of manual uncoupling tools are in use. Anything from skewers, drill bits, screw drivers, or commercially made tools like our #241 Dual Tool. You usually slip the tool between the knuckles and give it a slight twist and the couplers will pop open. There are places on certain layouts this could be difficult where the “brakeman” can not reach the couplers or buildings and scenery might get in the way. Magnetic uncoupling is a complete hands off system and when the uncouplers are placed strategically and you spend enough time learning and fine tuning your operations you’ll enjoy all aspects of model railroading to the fullest.
There are a number of remote electric actuated couplers being used in three rail O scale modeling and a few attempts in others scales but these couplers are limited to locomotives and have their development issues. With the popularity of DCC and other computer operated layouts and locomotives you’d imagine that there would be remote couplers available. But I’m sure eventually somebody will be able to over come the development costs and mechanical engineering issues and put a remote coupler on the market that the average modeler could afford. But until then we’ll continue to manually uncouple or use the legendary time tested Magne-Matic® uncoupling.

Sam the Answer Man: #10 August 2007
This month is a continuation of last months comments about our “Delayed Magnetic Uncoupling®” system (Magne-matic®).
We have two types of uncouplers in HO delayed and non-delayed, the #312 is a non-delayed uncoupler. It is narrower than our delayed uncoupler magnets so it only opens the couplers just enough to uncouple them but not wide enough for the delayed position. “All” of our other magnetic uncouplers including HOn3, HO, Sn3, S, On3, O, and large scale are all “delayed” uncouplers. Delayed uncouplers are wide enough to open the couplers to the delayed position. This means that as long as the couplers are over the magnet, you can push back into the open couplers and they will not recouple or lock up. The recentering is now “delayed” and the “thumbs” (non moving part) of the coupler heads are pushing into the open coupler keeping the knuckles (moving part of the head) from closing and locking up. As long as you have continual pressure against the couplers you can push the uncoupled cars anywhere on your layout. When you stop and “spot” the car and pull away, the couplers will recenter and are now ready to be coupled again. When all your couplers and uncouplers are mounted correctly the “Delayed Magnetic Uncoupling®” system is a complete “hands off” system. It is so well known that most model railroad companies (up through O scale) have either copied (the couplers and uncouplers) or have made provisions for the use of the Delayed Magne-matic® Uncoupling system. Kadee® is the only known company that offers large scale magnetic uncoupling in #1 and “G” scales, however, a number of large scale manufacturers are now making provisions on their models for truck and body mounted Kadee® couplers. Both Kadee® and the modelers appreciate this a great deal.
A few very important basic principals for couplers and uncouplers are: To have all your couplers at the same correct coupler height and mounted as level and to center as possible. Make sure each coupler has plenty of clearance and the coupler “snaps” back to center when it’s flipped back and forth. Each uncoupler needs to be mounted as designed and as recommended in the instructions, centered properly, and mounted at the correct height and not just “eye balled”. Drooping or slanted, too high or too low couplers will bring nothing but trouble to your operations. Take enough time and get your uncouplers and couplers mounted correctly and you’ll enjoy model railroading so much more. Enjoyment is what this hobby is all about and we’ll do all we can to help you enjoy it and Kadee® products.

Sam the Answer Man: #11 September 2007
Through this summer I’ve had many calls about large scale couplers and I’m going to address a couple of the more simple common questions.
Our two most common large scale couplers are the truck mounted #831 coupler and the body mounted #830 coupler. Both are 1:24 “G” scale couplers and their #1 scale 1:32 equivalents are the truck mounted #1831 and body mounted #820 couplers. Most of our other large scale couplers are made for certain types of models or particular conversions. We do use a number of these on more models than is usually listed.
The #831 coupler fits on “most” manufacturer’s truck mounted coupler arms (draw bars, tongues). It has a very large offset (gooseneck upward) that brings the coupler head to a more prototypical height. The #831 has a draft gear box that fits the common mounting arm that has a nub (boss or button) on the tip with a ridge down the center. Most often it’s best to cut the nub off and slide the coupler inward on the arm for a closer coupling. The major issue with this type of mounting is many of these mounting arms are too flexible and under a certain amount of pulling weight they flex up or down causing the couplers to want to slip out of each other.
The type of draft gear box used with the #831 coupler is used on many of our other couplers. Using this same box, in addition to the #831 large offset coupler, we offer the medium offset #787 (#1787 #1 scale) and the centerset #789 (#1789 #1 scale).
The body mounted #830 coupler has a very large draft gear box and it’s #1 scale equivalent is the #820 coupler. However, unlike the #831 and the #1831 using the same draft gear box, the #830 and #820 couplers, although having the same designs, are completely different sizes and do not have interchangeable boxes or couplers.
In the past, using the body mounted #830 or #820 couplers was a matter of “custom fitting” the coupler to the underbody of the model and getting it mounted at the correct height. Now there are several manufacturers that are making nice mounting platforms to easily mount our #830 coupler to their models. Most of them are made for the #830 coupler except for the MTH 1:32 models that are made for the #1 scale #820 coupler. If you wish to use the smaller #1 scale #820 coupler on platforms made for the “G” scale #830 coupler you will have to use a shim about .100” thick to bring the coupler down to the correct #1 scale coupler height. Also, you’ll need to drill new mounting holes for the #1 scale coupler and move the coupler forward to compensate for the spacing between cars.
We do not offer large scale couplers that are offset downward because we have rarely found a need for it. Also, we do not have offset couplers for the #830 or #820 types of boxes, again there has been little need.
Use our #880 “G” scale or our #829 #1 scale coupler height gauges to make sure all your couplers are at the same height. The coupler height gauges also will indicate the mounting platform height for body mounted couplers. Remember, if you have a question regarding Kadee® products feel free to simply ask Kadee®.

Sam the Answer Man: #12 October 2007
This new series is to help answer the many questions about Kadee® products and to provide “Helpful Hints” to modelers using our products.
This month’s subject is “Changing for the better”. Kadee has been in business since the 1940s and has had very few changes in the way we do business. For many reasons we have tried not to pre announce new products or our monthly release of new road names for our freight cars. However, with growing modern electronic technology and a continually changing competitive world wide market certain policies must be changed in order to keep our customers as happy as possible.
We began recently to “pre announce” what our up coming monthly road names for freight cars will be. But that’s not all, now we are allowing our customers to
“pre-order” our cars. This way our customers will have a way to make sure they can get the cars of their choice before they are sold out.
Each month we’ll post to our web site and have an e-mailed announcement (and a hard copy) sent to our dealers and to our retail customers, who have signed up. The posting and announcement now have the current and at least two months of up coming releases. Now the customer and dealers will not only know what we will be working on but be able to pre-order and better plan for future purchases. Kadee will also benefit (of course) in that we’ll have a better idea of how many cars to produce to satisfy our customers and to better control our inventory which reduces costs (and taxes).
October’s announcement not only has Octobers cars but also November, December & January’s cars and November’s announcements will have December, January & February’s cars, then so on.
Eventually we’ll reduce the amount of hard copy fliers we mail out and rely more so on our web site and e-mail announcements. However, there are many of our dealers that have not succumbed to the computer world and internet marketing and for these we’ll continue to send out hard copies of our monthly fliers.
Our web site’s home page www.kadee.com has a link to the page for the current flier and for “PRE-ORDERING” or you can go directly there at this following URL https://www.kadee.com/ca/preorder.htm

Sam the Answer Man: #13 November 2007
This new series is to help answer the many questions about Kadee® products and to provide “Helpful Hints” to modelers using our products.
Not long ago we introduced our AAR 50 ton, two bay, offset open hopper. Along with the hopper we released three coal loads as after market products, the hopper comes with smaller size “lump egg” size of load. The other two are the mid size “large lump” and the larger coal size “mine run”. We also attach these to a special weight that drops into the bottom of our cars and we sell these separately too. We feel that these are the finest detailed molded or cast coal loads on the market.
These coal loads will fit into most Athearn, Atlas, Bowser, and MDC (and other makes) two bay open hoppers with no or very little trimming.
I’ve modified them to various degrees to fit down into larger open hoppers then painted them to look like other types of heavier material such as sand or iron ore that would not fill the hopper before going over its’ weight capacity.
They also can be trimmed to fit in many tenders with exposed coal loads which make them look really nice compared to the factory molded in loads.

Recently a large scale modeler sent me the tender from an Accucraft 1:32 scale AMS Big Boy Locomotive for a Kadee® coupler conversion. The following is my official conversion write up.
The all metal construction of this model limits the ability to modify the coupler pocket for a normal functional coupler. However, we managed to fit a #822 into the pocket and modified it to function with a centering system. Fortunately, on the model we converted the coupler pocket was at the correct #1 scale coupler height for the use of the centerset #822 coupler. This does not mean that all of the AMS Big Boy Tenders will have the correct coupler height.
Invert the tender and place on a padded surface or cradle. Remove the coupler pivoting screw and original coupler and retain the screw for later use.
Shorten the shank of the #822 coupler to 1/2” measured from the back of the coupler head. Measure again from the back of the head .280 (9/32”) and on the centerline drill a 7/64” hole through the shank as illustrated. Next drill two shallow 7/64” holes, one on each side of the shank, near the end. Do not drill all the way through because the holes are to retain the coil springs.
We sell three coil springs that are suitable for this conversion #875, #877, and #1875. The #875 (knuckle spring for #819 through #828 and #920 & #921), #877 (centering spring for the #821 & #921 couplers), and #1875 ( knuckle springs for 1700 & 1800 series couplers). The side centering springs will be trimmed to where they just set against the side walls of the pocket without being compressed. Take a spring and insert it into one of the side holes in the shank (make sure it’s seated in the hole as far as it will go), set the coupler into (centered) the pocket just enough to “eye ball” how long the spring should be. Trim the spring with small wire cutters (be safe and always wear eye protection when working with cutting tools) then do the same to the other side. Remove the springs turn them around and put them back in the same holes with the cut end inside, set the coupler all the way into the pocket, and use the original screw to hold the coupler in place. Check and make sure the coupler comes to exact center. Flip it back and forth to make sure of the springs functioning and location. If the coupler does not center properly you’ll have to trim the spring on the strong side to get the proper center location.